Die cutting is any procedure in which a machine is used to mass create a single cut-out shape. This allows you to cut out the same design repeatedly without the need for a template or scissors. It not only saves time, but it also provides a consistent, high-quality cut, making wedding invitations and other critical crafts accessible and enjoyable to accomplish at home.
Manual die cutting machines are less expensive and more powerful than digital die cutting machines, and they can cut through a wider range of materials. They're also wonderful for embossing, something most computerised machines are incapable of.
These are metal items with a specified shape and a raised, sharp region for cutting; they resemble cookie cutters in appearance. The shape of the die is the shape of the fabric or paper that will be cut. There are various types of dies: Steel rule dies are sharper, have a protective foam or plastic covering, and are more robust since they can cut thick materials or many materials at once. Thin metal dies are not particularly sharp and cannot cut very thick materials. Die forms, sizes, and styles range from simple squares, rectangles, and circles to more complicated designs such as words, animals, flowers, and lacy shapes.
The reverse side of the die is smooth in both steel rule and thin metal. Make sure the ridged, sharp side of the die is facing the paper while cutting. If you look closely, you'll notice tiny holes in the die; these holes allow you to free the material if it becomes caught in the die and aren't apparent in the pattern. If the material becomes stuck, you can free it with a die pick.
These dies serve to dress up the edges of any paper craft creation and may be used for almost any type of card layout, but they look especially great on standup cards. These dies include delicate, detailed designs that give a pop of colour to any project with a single cut. These dies can be used to create a simple edge or a beautiful multi-edge piece for photo mats, journals, and greeting cards. Words are the newest edgeable dies, allowing you to add words to the edges of your paper projects.
Each die cutting machine includes plates, which are simply plastic rectangles that can be clear or coloured. The aim is to sandwich a metal die and the object to be cut between these plates. Some machines also have a metal plate (for cutting fabric, for example) or an embossing shim (soft and flexible that allows to emboss design onto paper)
The paper may have become trapped within the die, but you can easily separate it to reveal exquisite die cut paper! If you're dealing with a smaller, more intricate die design, you may need to pop your paper die cut out using a craft pick.
These unusual cuts cannot be made by three-knife trimmers in a custom printing supplier's finishing department. So you must first construct a metal die cutting apparatus, then die cut your packing (or other product) blanks, and finally remove the scrap or trash, leaving only the appropriate shape behind. Only then can the flat sheet be folded, assembled, and glued into a three-dimensional container (or pocket folder or envelope).
For films in the 1-2 mil range, a 30 degree blade is a decent rule of thumb. A 45-degree blade is appropriate for films ranging in thickness from 2 mil to 5 or 6 mil, while a 60-degree blade is appropriate for films thicker than 6 mil. Avery Dennison beaded or prismatic reflective films, for example, are best cut using a 60-degree blade. If you frequently transition between 2 mil cast films and 3-4 mil calendered films, the 45 degree blade may be a useful all-purpose blade for daily use.
When you set the blade in the holder, you must manually adjust how far the blade protrudes from the holder. It is a typical mistake to expose too much of the blade. The thickness of a credit card is an excellent starting point for blade depth modification. A close-up of how I set the blade depth on my cutter. The most important thing is to expose enough of the blade to cut cleanly through the film and glue. When cutting heavier materials, you may need to expose a little more blade.
Once the blade depth has been adjusted, the blade can be replaced in its holder, and the blade pressure must be adjusted. Because each cutter is unique, and pressure may vary depending on blade age and angle, I recommend starting with the manufacturer's recommended default settings and modifying from there. You can use the inbuilt test cut in the cutter programme. Usually, there is a "cut test" option. The goal is to apply pressure so that the blade cuts through the film and adhesive layer without cutting into the lining.
Begin by using your plotter's test cut option. You should be able to weed away the square while leaving the triangle behind without raising any of the triangle's corners. I was able to cleanly peel the square away. When I examined the cut depth with my felt-tipped marker, however, I discovered that I had really scored the silicone release layer. Take note of how the ink has bled through to the paper. I made repeated modifications, lowering the pressure each time, until the film did not weed correctly. Then I went back to the previous option that worked great.
The labels are the final and most difficult phase of die cutting the commercial printing consolidator's shapes. As a result, only specialised form printers responded to my RFQs (request for quotes) for these contracts. The adhesive would need to be applied to the back of the 24# bond (or 90# index or 60# cover) base sheets for the forms by the forms printers. The thin label liner paper would then need to be attached (the slick base paper underneath most labels that protects the label adhesive).
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